Under the lights, Pulwama turns into Kashmir’s cricket capital

A deafening roar echoes through Pulwama’s Sports Stadium as Sultan Warriors’ pacer Salman knocks over Royal Goodwill’s Nasir Hussain. Seconds later, two loud bangs silence the crowd — not gunfire, but celebratory fireworks splitting the late-summer sky.

This is Pulwama’s first cricket carnival under floodlights, the Royal Premier League (RPL) — and it has transformed a quiet town into Kashmir’s new cricket capital.

The fortnight-long tournament, which began on August 25, has brought together 160 players across 10 teams, and with it, a surge of emotion from across the Valley. Organisers say nearly 10,000 people couldn’t even make it inside on opening night because of traffic jams, as fans travelled 60–70 km to witness the spectacle.

“This is insane,” a policeman gasped while directing traffic outside the stadium. “I’ve seen big cricket events, but nothing like this.”

A town that refuses to sleep

For Pulwama, where nights usually wind down after the last call for prayer, the tournament has redefined evenings. Floodlit streets buzz with vendors selling snacks, shops brimming with excited crowds, and police cars weaving through cricket-mad throngs. Even fans stranded miles away chose to abandon their vehicles and walk to the stadium, guided by the glow of floodlights leased from Delhi.

“This was always going to be special,” says league organiser Irfan Ahmad Bhat. “Our players never get to experience turf pitches or night matches. This is about giving them that stage.”

Though the stadium itself has stood for decades, its first proper turf was laid barely a month ago. Beyond local stars, the RPL has also drawn 60 players from outside Jammu and Kashmir — widening the tournament’s reach and giving Valley cricketers a taste of tougher competition.

Cricket as an antidote to despair

The Valley’s bond with cricket is not new. Just last year, Srinagar hosted the Legends League, where international stars like Chris Gayle and Yousuf Pathan drew 15,000 spectators. But organisers say Pulwama’s crowd has already eclipsed that.

For many here, the significance goes beyond sport. “Kashmir is searching for happiness more than peace,” says Waheed Para, Pulwama legislator and PDP leader, watching from the stands. “Generations here have faced death, jails, drugs, and depression. This event is a step to reclaim joy.”

In a land where the past often casts long shadows, the sight of thousands chanting under floodlights is nothing short of extraordinary. For now, cricket has given Pulwama — and Kashmir — a reason to cheer.